It was a homecoming evening for the Œ Team when we arrived at Cruise & Callas for the Julian Zigerli SS14 show “At the End of the World to the Left”. During most Fashion Week shows, I’m locked into autopilot mode, shuffling from one event to the next hoping to make it home with enough energy still to work. But among the friendly faces in the intimate gallery setting Tuesday evening, I found myself at ease and ready to celebrate the work of our dear friend and early Œ Magazine contributor.
“At the End of the World to the Left” is a collaborative effort between Julian Zigerli and internationally acclaimed artist Katharina Grosse. The dictum “Fashion is Art” rang clear and true as we were lead into the gallery bedecked by Grosse’s spray painted sculptural forms. Then came the walking exhibition—abstract prints boldly blurred the distinction between fashion, art, architecture, and environment. With a substantial amount of onlookers decked out in Julian Zigerli pieces, including German rapper Yasha, it felt like we were all there to witness the ascent of a designer we have placed much faith in.
As a sportswear aficionado, Julian expressed his skill and love quite literally this season, presenting mesh jerseys and shorts resembling basketball uniforms along with a sporty array of garments minted with Grosse’s artistic abstractions. Carefully placed cut-outs under arm sleeves allowed for the practical function of movement on stiffer fabrics and added visual depth intended for layering. Of course, no Zigerli collection is complete without those endearing matching bags and backpacks. This season, they hung with ease like duffel bags and, strangely enough, halter tops off the models shoulders and necks. Amidst the Fashion Week sea of simple cuts and purist leanings, Julian has carved out his own crazy universe of possibilities, closing out Day 1 of MBFWB on a note of defiance and optimism.
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Rapper Yasha, with his girlfriend Sarah Conen, in Julian Zigerli AW 13/14 trousers.