In one of the week’s more ambitious productions, Berlin contemporary fashion doyenne Marina Hoermanseder, took to a familiar haunt, the Kronprinzenpalais, presenting her collection over the buildings two upper floors. The show proved itself to be a feat of endurance, if not for the audience then at least for the models. Propped up by 6-inch heels, the challenge of retaining balance and poise proved all too much for some with the odd stumble, alongside a fall, on the runway. This, however, did little to distract from the sleek assertiveness of the collection, an artfully executed balancing act of delicacy, lightness, and raw empowerment. Unmistakably feminine silhouettes left no room for ambiguity, evidently drawing upon the “New Look” for inspiration, with nipped-in waists expanding into full, gently pleated skirts. Coats, blouses, trousers and jumpsuits worked to a similar effect, accentuating the contours of the body in a manner subtle, yet commanding.
Subtlety is certainly not a trait one could attribute to the highlights of the collection, Hoermanseder’s oeuvre-defining sculptural leather masterpieces. Crafted in patent leathers, in pastel, cream and rich burgundy-brown tones, this season brought the return of the high-waisted belt skirt, wax-like moulded tops, a full sculpted dress and the undisputed highlight of the collection, a burgundy cloche skirt, cinched in pleats at the waist, decorated by crown shape flecks of shimmering embroidery.
Images via Andreas Rentz/Getty Images Der Berliner Mode Salon
Philomena Zanetti’s collection was an altogether more humble affair, presented in the intimacy of the me Collectors Room. Inspired by the rugged Irish coastline, the brand’s designer Julia Leifert presented a sombre, yet serene, collection in blacks, stone greys, mossy greens and earthy chocolate browns, mimicking the breath-taking visual harmonies of a barren, windswept landscape. Garments were impeccable crafted, clean & structured, yet powerful. Tailored shirts with slit pockets, pleated trousers and a sharp militaristic coat were complemented by unstructured kimono-esque cropped jackets and draping skirts. Leifert’s technical mastery become only more worthy of praise given the wealth of textures employed, with chunky knits and felts, smooth silks, matte cottons and velvety finishes, once again proving that high end fashion and environmental consciousness & sustainability can happily co-exist, and demonstrating that, with an innovative enough approach, the most humble of fabrics can be transformed into a items of luxury as covetable as any other.
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With most of the more established Berlin designers showing their collections off-site at Kronprinzenpalais, it came as a pleasant surprise when veteran designer duo Perret Schaad packed their guests into the lumber department of hardware superstore Hellweg Baumarkt.
This season, Johanna Perret and Tutia Schaad took their special brand of straight thinking, minimalist aesthetic and steeped it in rich winter colours inspired by details taken from traditional asian garments. Silky dresses, fluid trousers, and tailored blouses were finished with mandarin collars and accented with printed obi sashes. The designers also paid homage to Vietnamese attire, styling silky tunics over wide leg trousers, combined to resemble a modern day áo dài. Though imbued with tradition, the collection itself was as wearable and forward thinking as any other Perret Schaad collections, with looks that easily transition from work attire to evening apparel.
The AW 16/17 collection from designer duo darlings Augustin Teboul hit a milestone this fashion week. Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul have finally found a winning balance between art, craft, and commerce. After several years of designing other-worldly garb and gaining immense interest for their meticulous craftsmanship, the designers made their first venture into more wearable and commercial output last season, with a concise collection of denim minis and jackets bearing their signature crochet work and beading. Although the collection was beautifully captured in a series of photos from photographer Ellen von Umwerth, it seemed to miss the awe we’re all so used to getting from their work. And yet, what a difference a season makes.
‘Défilé’, was unveiled with a moving live performance from French singer Fishbach, revealing a series of looks that mixed edgy punk-inspired apparel with night life glamour. For the first time, the duo sidestepped their affinity for monochromatic looks, incorporating patches of neon colours into gossamer knits, dressed-up biker jackets,and fishnet leggings. Still, the founding elements of the collection were nevertheless an Augustin Teboul trademark that involved intricate beading and complex crochet work. Stripped of the hyperbolic headpieces and theatrical makeup of seasons past, the new collection felt like genuine, hard-won evolution for two of Berlin’s most prized designers always ready to put on a show.
Images via Andreas Rentz/Getty Images for Der Berliner Mode Salon
Keeping in trend with the stepping away from traditional contexts, Vladimir Karaleev gave a lesson in the art of the curated fashion presentation, proving that the runway need not be the only, or in fact best, way to present a collection. Well in keeping with the space’s main purpose as a gallery, the centre of the room was taken up by an installation composed of a flowing bundle of felt, around which statuesque models stood clad in the Bulgarian-born designer’s seasonal offerings.
As with previous collections, a playful pick’n’mix of patterns and textures held centre stage, as seen in the case of a particular jacket, with one sleeve of thick plaid-like fabric, the colour of autumn foliage, the other in a chunky cream knit, fastened onto a body of rough, bobbled tweed. Other garments experimented extensively with panelling and asymmetric layering, with wide ribbons of rugged materials attached to some pieces, their haphazard draping offering new depths, textures and dimensions to stormy greys, blacks and navy blues. Some pieces presented novel approaches to wardrobe staples, while guarding their traditional silhouettes. Impeccably tailored collared jackets were obscured by triangular points of fabric, while exposed panels and visibly crooked seams enhanced apron-like cocktail dresses in the trademark grey tweed.
Balancing the collection was a selection of simple-yet-sharp trousers and turtlenecks in blacks, khakis, turquoises and creams, offering a sober backdrop for Karaleev’s more experimental work, simultaneously proving the extent of his abilities, be it a traditional or an avant-garde context.
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Closing out the busiest day of the schedule at the Kronprinzenpalais was William Fan, his collection blending seamlessly with the setting’s shaded. Blacks and inky blues were countered by khaki, sky blue, scarlet and brilliant flashes of gold resulting in a collection unfathomably versatile in its implementation of decoration and dramatic glitz. Contrasting rich velvets with buttery leathers and gently shimmering satin accents, the presentation brimmed over with murky opulence. Hinting at storied era of late 70s NYC club culture, icons of which include the inimitable Grace Jones, sleeves and legs were flared, while upper garments and dresses were generously fringed with cascading tassels.
As mentioned, bursts of gold often cut through shadowy silhouettes, affording them a playful decadence. Yet the full effect of this most precious of metallics shone through in two particular looks, one composed of a long-sleeved turtleneck and floor-sweeping trousers, both flared, in blinding glittery material the other, a clean-cut sleeveless top in black silk, overwhelmed by baggy trousers in gold foil. While the kitsch factor may be a little much for some to handle, they fulfilled a distinct role, balancing the murky depths of the sumptuous dark textures and tones.
Behind the performative value of the glitzier garments, Fan’s abilities as an innovative garment creator were prominently exhibited in his weaving of traditionally Chinese silhouettes throughout the collection, placing them within his typically experimental fabric contexts. Were one to choose a signature piece, it would have to be Fan’s take on the mandarin coat, in black velvet with silk pocket and button details, complemented by the collection’s definitive motif, the flared sleeve.
Images via Andreas Rentz/Getty Images for Der Berliner Mode Salon
