Triple Zero

Following Tunis Fashion Week, we met with Designer Haroun Ghanmi at his atelier to discuss Tunisian youth culture and his brand Anomalies’ first collection

Arriving at the Souk in Tunis to meet Haroun Ghanmi, an aroma of floral fragrances, spices and leather engulfs us. The buzz of bartering hums in the background as the designer leads the way through a labyrinth of shops adorned with Mergoum rugs and brass lanterns – a deliciously overwhelming route to reach his atelier.

Still weaving through the crowds, Ghanmi looks back at us from under his brown curls and beams: “I got into fashion when I was a kid. I loved drawing and the first thing I ever drew was an evening dress. I would steal my mum’s Vogue issues and dive into the pages. I also used to cut up small pieces of fabric and make mini clothes for dolls.”

At just 18 years old, Ghanmi was the youngest designer at the 13th edition of Tunis Fashion Week, hosted seven hours away from the capital at Chott El-Jérid, the largest salt lake in the Maghreb. For his brand Anomalies‘ debut appearance, he presented his first full collection Triple Zero, inspired by Tunisia’s underground Techno scene.

When asked about the concept of his brand, Ghanmi told us: “Anomalies represents everything I was told not to do or to be. In French, the word anomalie signifies the countering of nature, a glitch or an awakened individual among washed-away identical individuals. It represents my relationship to the Tunisian society that I grew up in and have always been somewhat an anomaly in.”

Impressed with how much the young designer has already achieved, we gladly accepted the invitation to meet him at his atelier in Tunis to find out more.

Œ: It’s uncommon and equally impressive that you have established your own brand at just 18 years old. How did Anomalies come to fruition? 

Ghanmi: I never thought I had launched a brand by now, but everything just fell into place. I was working on my art school application project, mostly with leather and the idea of transfiguring a 2D form into a 3D shape. I had sketches and research files full of references drawn from history and art.

One day, my friend introduced me to Anis Montacer, the organiser of Tunis Fashion Week, who took an interest in me. He liked my sketches and ideas behind the collection, and he was particularly fascinated when I told him my age. I think that was the push I needed to start Anomalies.



Œ: Where do you draw inspiration from most?

Ghanmi: I like going to Tunis downtown and observing people. I get inspired by raw life scenes. I see the beauty in ugly things. There is always a story behind every horrific event or struggle. The Tunisian youth will forever be my biggest inspiration. These kids are fighting to create from nothing – no financial help or guidance. They want to push the limits and revolt against a rotting narrow-minded society.

Œ: What are the core values and mission of Anomalies?

Ghanmi: My brand reflects my experiences as an 18-year-old living in a North African country. It’s inspired by the rich historical and cultural aspects, but also the sad political realities of young people in Tunisia. My purpose is to bring attention to the youth – to shock the elders so they understand the struggles and repression we encounter.

I hope to have more means to create more, so I can shake up Tunisia and the fashion industry. And, of course, I want to inspire young people and influence how they dress and think. My ultimate goal is that the echoes from my shows reach the whole world.



Œ: What would a ‘shake up’ of the Tunisian fashion industry look like to you?

Ghanmi: Unfortunately, Tunisia doesn’t quite have an established fashion scene, we’re still a bit behind. But that doesn’t discourage me from making a change and fighting for it! If you can’t find your inspiration you have to become your inspiration.

Designers should be more personal with their shows. Presenting 10 designers in the same venue kills the individual touch and doesn’t reflect the vision of each designer properly. Big corporations should invest more in the fashion industry, especially for young artists and designers.

Œ: Congratulations on your Tunis Fashion Week debut! You presented your first collection Triple Zero. Could you tell us more about it?

Ghanmi: It was quite an experimental project! I was inspired by the Tunisian Techno scene, where I found a small community that I was welcomed by and grew up with. The collection is an insight into the evolution of Techno style, an imagined reality of what people in the scene would be wearing 100 years from now.

I envisioned a change in silhouettes, but I also made the materials compatible with the upcoming weather or atmospheric circumstances. I also wanted to make clothes out of unusual materials. Soft and breathable materials are cut from raw and rough up-cycled fabrics to reduce the environmental damage that the textile industry has caused over the centuries.



Œ: Given your collection celebrates the Techno community, the nighttime backdrop seems fitting. Was this intentional?

Ghanmi: There’s a funny story behind this. My show was initially scheduled for the last sight of sunset, moving into the beginning of the night. But I couldn’t make it to Tozeur the night before to prepare for my show because I couldn’t afford a bus ticket, so I worked the night before to pay for it *Ghanmi laughs*

I had no choice but to arrive only 30 minutes before my show started. As other designers were putting clothes on their models, I was running to the salt lake with my suitcase, gripping my garments, trying not to lose any pieces. All the pre-show stress aside, it was the most exciting moment of my life!

Œ: Despite the difficulties you faced making it to the show, were you happy with the overall result?

Ghanmi: I was happy with how the show went, but throughout, I had this little voice in my head telling me: ‘You could’ve done better, you could’ve been more organised!’ But even with that little voice, it was such a beautiful experience for my first show. I felt proud of myself and I felt that people finally saw me! I’m not that boy hiding in the atelier anymore *Ghanmi laughs*



Œ: Being rocketed into the fashion scene at such a young age must have come with its own challenges. How are you coping with your newfound fame?

Ghanmi: I feel blessed and seen, but I’ve also been feeling pretty overwhelmed with the amount of exposure I’ve received. When I started making clothes all I was thinking was: ‘create, create, create’, I never thought my creations would see the light. I had this vision in my head of these imaginary characters and I wanted to see them come to life, I wanted to see the clothes on people. If you create with that vision in mind, nothing can go wrong.

Œ: What’s next in store for you?

Ghanmi: The next step is to finish high school and go on to study fashion at the Antwerp Academy of Fine Arts. I’m keen to learn more, to improve my skills and technique. I’m currently doing research and sourcing inspiration for my next collection. I think Antwerp would be a great fit!


Œ: Where would you like to be 10 years from now?

Ghanmi: In 10 years, I will have hopefully finished my fashion degree and be an internationally established designer. I’d like to keep creating and improving – searching for new techniques, materials and inspiration, whilst keeping that same energy as I have now. Ideally, I will have found a niche style and have painted my overall philosophy.