The New Tailoring


For Autumn/Winter 2014-2015 designers had a clear focus on craftsmanship, rediscovering a newfound appreciation for sharp suits. The trend is a collective proposal for quality and longevity over quick and disposable. Designers everywhere are taking tailoring to the next level, adding a touch of modernity and, at times, oddity to the old art.

Designers like Anthony Vaccarello and LaLa Berlin opted for statement materials, such as lavish lamé or bold PVC, while brands like Gucci and David Tomaszewski added some fur to the mix. Menswear brands interpreted this trend by playing around with prints and giving the sharp-looking suits some street credit. Andrea pompilio mastered the t-shirt/suit combination, adding gloves and layering to the structured look, while the Berlin runway saw Matteo Lamandini sending out models in clean-cut suits with patches of various tartan prints (a collection, which won him first prize in the Designer for Tomorrow competition).

The mixture of creativity and formality of “new tailoring” has transformed an age old craft catered to men into a high fashion statement for both sexes.

Tailored looks in lavish materials as seen at Lala Berlin and Anthony Vaccarello.

Adding a hint of fur to a structured outfit as seen at Gucci and David Tomaszewski.

Giving the tailored look some street credit by layering with a slouchy T as seen at Andrea Pompilio.

Experimenting with shapes within the restrictions of a suit as seen at Brachmann and Givenchy.

Runway images courtesy of and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.