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Finale of Xiaolei Xu
Photography – Andreas Rost
Earlier this Summer we’ve seen the graduate shows of the renowned Berlin based fashion schools UdK (University of applied arts) and Kunsthochschule Berlin Weissensee.
Both schools are known for bringing up talented graduates.
UdK has always been famous for having outstanding graduate shows. After lasts years amazing presentation with walk throughs in many different settings we where quite underwhelmed in terms of presentation and especially the quality of the presented works that often gave the impression of unfinishedness.
It was all the more beautiful that Kunsthochschule Weissensee had an outstanding show this year, with many great collections to fill in the gap of an outstanding graduate show in Berlin. The presentation was arranged as a dinner, with inviations sent out beforehand printed on cloth napkins, at the presentation models were strutting down the table and the dinner menu with the courses featured the designers and collection names.
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Finale of Kaja Busch
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A look of Johanna Marie Busch
Photography – Andreas Rost
We introduce you to three of the collections that stood out most for us.
Marvin Mülleck: I share my bed with dreams
Marvin Mülleck’s collection was our favorite one. He also won the price for Best Design at the renowned Neo.Fashion.Awards.
With his master collection “I share my bed with dreams”, Marvin Mülleck explores the areas of tension between man and nature, city and countryside and past and present.
With his self-named Neofolklore, the designer combines childlike imagery with uncompromising topicality, drawing on his painting skills alongside a variety of manufacturing techniques. However, the aim of the collection is not to find an autobiographical narrative, but to search for universally valid symbolism and clothing that is closer to real life.
Runway Photography – KOWA-Berlin
Saraa Kröpelin: THE MEAN REDS (ANGST)
Saraa Kröpelin’s master collection is driven by the idea of anxiety as a creative force and is questioning the gap between reality and a typical fashion statement.
Whilst power symbols are a common subject on the runway and in the industry, only few are talking about their fears, being sensitive or vulnerable. It is often misunderstood as the opposite of strengthand referred to as a weakness. The collection is showing how these are actually connected – fuelling each other and the overall creative vision.
Working as an intern at Mugler and Acne Studios has strongly influenced Saraa in her way of working and aesthetics. Setting a focus on materials such as metal, jersey, upcycled leather and printed fringes her garments are very expressive in shape and are rather a deconstructed memory of the classic idea of clothes and their common use.
Runway Photography – KOWA-Berlin
Leo Prevaes: Small world, big dreams
Using objects that look like props left behind, Leo Prevaes creates a menswear collection inspired by concepts of the masculine ideal and childhood memories. He creates playful silhouettes that combine draped garments with hard shapes and various accumulated objects. Thanks to his professional experience as a flou designer at CELINE, Prevaes was able to apply his skilful craft in an interdisciplinary way: he not only works with silk, but also drapes leather and jersey.
Runway Photography – KOWA-Berlin
While the shows were a mixed bag, it was clear that Berlin’s next generation of designers is unafraid to challenge conventions, explore vulnerability, and redefine what fashion can be. These three collections are just a glimpse into the future of fashion, and we can’t wait to see what they do next.
Credits
Runway PHotography
KOWA-Berlin
PHotography
Andreas Rost