Day three started off with Rike Feuerstein, displaying an ambitious collection of hats and garments comprised of modern takes on time-old designs. The eye-catching mesh pieces are editorial blessings, offering subdued drama in the form of monochrome headwear. Combined with latex outfits, Feuerstein displayed a distinctly sophisticated side to a material that is all too often seen only in its fetishistic light.
Each season, Elle and Mercedes-Benz team up to sponsor one promising young designer. With no other than Tilda Swinton and Haider Ackermann in attendance Thursday morning, a lot was expected of Austrian designer Roshi Porkar. Her unique collection, lived up to all expectations, featuring geometric dresses, ankle length coats and high waisted trousers. The collection was crafted from thick cotton combined with silk and faux fur in a sea of soft colors. The focal point of her silhouettes is on the waist, creating a classical image combined with sharp cuts and straight lines that lend the collection its modern edge.
Next we were off to Perret Schaad, where the duo presented their collection in the breathtaking Kronprinzenpalais garden. There’s a reason why the label is consistently one of Berlin Fashion Week’s highlights — Johanna Perret and Tutia Schaad are minimalist masters with an especially great eye for colors and sharp tailoring. SS 15 did not disappoint with its stunning laser cut pieces and splashes of daring colors, injecting a necessary amount of jubilance into an otherwise more tempered collection of meticulously tailored trousers and asymmetrical draped frocks. A cunningly crafted white sleeveless jumpsuit is this season’s standout piece, showcasing the duo’s knack for exacting simplicity.
Anticipation was high at Augustin Teboul, this year’s winner of the Woolmark prize and certainly one of the most treasured set of designers hailing from Berlin. Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul returned to an all black collection this season entitled “Shiny Void”. Structured leather and intricate beading were perfectly balanced by gossamer tops and leggings, touches of sheer and hints of silver. The duo managed to produce their most wearable collection to date while maintaining unrivaled innovative craft work.
Back at the Stadion, Isabell de Hillerin scaled back on sexy, replacing last season’s plunging necklines, glossy gowns and screaming hues with some sporty streetwear pieces and a calmer color spectrum. A little bit of sheer and delicate weaving went a long way on the runway, lending modern appeal to sober basics.
Vladimir Karaleev closed out the evening back at Kronprinzenpalais with the best show of the day, one which saw the young designer take a huge leap in terms of risk and innovation. The immensely talented Bulgarian-born designer has always ranked high on our list of Berlin talent, but as with many designers here, Karaleev had fallen into a play-it-safe mindset in past seasons, opting to produce commercially viable pieces at the expense of his own creative evolution. It is refreshing then to see the young designer break free from this beaten path and stun us with something breathtakingly new. For SS 15, Kareleev experimented with an array of fabrics, layering, structures and bold geometric lines for both men and women. His signature elements of deconstruction alongside breezy organza layers served as a brilliant counterpoint to more structured silhouettes. Each garment was created as a building unit capable of surprising transformations when combined with other pieces within the collection. What can we say? He took a risk that certainly paid off and we hope that other young designers will take some notes from the Karleev playbook next season.
