Hernán

We caught up with designer Hernán Donoso about his affinity with sewing machines, managing an ever-growing brand and being featured in Vogue.

Argentinian art director and designer Hernán Donoso first visited Berlin with friends eight years ago and instantly became enamoured with the city. At the time, he was studying and working in Spain but was seeking an alternative home in Europe, and Berlin just clicked. He explained: “There was a challenge and a freedom that the city was offering, and here I am still.”

We’ve had our eyes on the designer since 2019, when a friend introduced us to his eponymous brand, Hernán. Donoso’s forte has always been accessories – harnesses with handy pockets, fanny packs, headscarves and caps. Recently, he has been expanding and is creating more tailored body pieces such as waistcoats, collars, vests, leather shorts and trousers.

Over the last four years, we’ve witnessed him toiling to perfect his craftsmanship, even converting his flat into a workroom to optimise his hours. Things are finally taking off for the designer, and we know better than anyone that his recent success is well-deserved.

LEFT/ABOVE
Harness – Hernán
Sunglasses – Vintage Dior
Jewellery – Nhat Vudang

RIGHT/BELOW
Ring cap – Hernán
Trousers – Comme des Garçons
Top – Maris Pieper

Œ: Where did your entanglement with fashion design begin?

Donoso: My mum is a seamstress. She used to be busy at night, finishing her orders. Whilst I was with her, she taught me how to cut fabrics. My house in Buenos Aires was full of fabrics everywhere and five sewing machines. You know, I can still smell the oil in that room. She also used to buy European magazines like Burda, and I remember asking her how to pronounce Yves Saint Laurent – she knew how to do it perfectly.

When I moved to Europe, I studied Advertising and Public Relations, but that wasn’t creative enough. So, I relocated to Madrid to study Fashion Design, focusing on accessories. I tried many times to work for brands like Loewe, a Spanish brand that produces in Madrid, but I failed. Unfortunately, fashion didn’t present many opportunities, so I built my own space to work and learn. I went on to study Art Direction at Central Saint Martins, but I always knew I liked creating wearable things most. Nothing makes me happier than creating something that sparks a connection with somebody – for me, that’s magical! 



Œ: How did your brand, Hernán, come into existence? 

Donoso: My brand was officially established in the Spring of 2019 when I made a collection of 12 pieces, which I showcased in Berlin. I still sell some pieces from that original collection, like the Ring Cap. The name of the brand took me a while. Initially, I didn’t want to put my name on it, and after a while, it felt stupid not to. It’s my brand. I poured everything into it, so naming it after myself felt like the right choice.

We are a small team of three – me and just two more people. We create every piece in Neukölln. It’s a lot of work, and I always feel like I’m behind somehow, but I like that it’s very organic. The pieces we make are pieces we need – that’s how you wear them better. I started working with a marketing agency to give me more business perspective, but the team is still small.

LEFT/ABOVE
Top and shorts – Tim Süssbauer 
Bracelet – Model’s own 
Jewellery – Nhat Vudang
Socks – 032c
Bag – Hernán

Œ: What core values shape your brand?

Donoso: I don’t know how big the brand will grow or what direction it will go, but I know that I always want to portray the value of craftsmanship. I am not against technology, but the rhythm of the fashion industry is so machine-like now. We live in an age where an item created yesterday is already outdated. So, I like to remind people that we humans exist. I’m a firm believer that good things take time. Talent takes time to develop. I also want the brand to be associated with quality and a fun approach. If that’s even possible? *Denoso laughs*



Œ: Where do you draw inspiration from most?

Donoso: It’s hard to define this as one thing or person. I am inspired most by those who reached the highest wave or boundary of their capabilities. Visual art is a key source of inspiration, namely, the black paintings of Spanish artist Francisco Goya and the distorted bodies of Greek sculptor and painter El Greco.  

In the fashion world, Cristobal Balenciaga and how he got so deep into tailoring. Thinking about how Dior and Chanel called him the master of his craft – to me, that is mindblowing! Nowadays, so few designers want to understand the craft of tailoring deeply or dedicate the time to executing it. Instead, they will be like: ‘Yes, I know how to sew, but I’m bitchy enough to tell a whole team my vision.’ Yes, times have changed, I get it, our capabilities are different now.

Sometimes, inspiration comes from the fabrics themselves. Sometimes, inspiration comes from social media or YouTube. I love listening to interviews with people I admire while working. Some people have this innate ability to sedate and allure you just by talking.

LEFT/ABOVE
Corset – Bottega Veneta
Scarf – Versace
Trousers – Comme des Garçons
Jewellery – Nhat Vudang

Œ: When I look at your fanny packs or ring caps, they are symbiotic with the stereotypical ‘Berliner Style’. When you are creating new works, are Berliners your target audience?

Donoso: I guess social media made the world more connected and ‘flat’. I was in Buenos Aires a year ago, and my friends there told me: “Let’s go to this place, it’s very Berlin!” I’ve also heard this in Paris. I live in Berlin, so I’m naturally affected by the culture, but my aim isn’t to be a representation of the club scene. I think it’s very needed culturally, and Berlin enjoys a rich, open culture in which the club scene plays a big part here and everywhere. So, yes, Berliners are part of my audience, but not all of it! 



Œ: Your designs have made it to the pages of Sickymag, Puss Puss Mag and Vogue. Is there a particular feature you’re most proud of?

Donoso: All of those features meant something different to me. Vogue is like the bible, so it’s good to be in there! The shooting with Carlota Guerrero had a significant impact on me. But, I am most proud of my feature in Puss Puss. I love the talent involved in that magazine. It feels more like freedom of expression – that vibe means much more to me than just being popular.

LEFT/ABOVE
Vest – Hernán
Balaclava – Rufo Gernreich
Jewellery – Nhat Vudang

Œ: Speaking of scene-shaking talent, you designed a custom piece for Venezuelan Musician Arca. How did that collaboration happen?

Donoso: We met in Berlin and connected instantly. She asked me so many things about my work I was in disbelief. One night, we talked, and she asked me: “Do you wanna make something for one of my performances?” I was freaking out! Back then, I only had four pictures on Instagram. She hadn’t seen my work in real life, but she still told me: “I know whatever you’re going to create, it’s going to be beautiful.” Yes, she is like that – she can see through your skin and guts – she just sees the truth. After I agreed, she said, “I want you on stage with me to put the pieces on.” It was midnight. I had to go for a run in Tiergarten to realise what I was experiencing.


Œ: What is your current design process?

Donoso: I create entire collections as well as custom items. We work primarily on demand. Some parts are produced in Spain, such as metals and trimmings, but the rest is handmade in Berlin. I love it like that. I cannot imagine selling something that is made somewhere I have no connection with. Or thinking: ‘I just did a sketch, and someone I don’t know, whom I have no relationship with is creating this for me?!’ I love the craft and working directly with my designs. As the brand grows, I wonder how I will imbue a part of myself on a bigger scale. 

LEFT/ABOVE
Trousers and cap – Comme des Garçons
Blue vest – Hernán
Jewellery – Nhat Vudang
Scarf – Versace
Corset – Bottega Veneta

Œ: Where do you picture yourself in five years? 

Donoso: I see myself sewing *Denoso laughs* I see myself working with people who can teach me and inspire me more and more. I see myself with beautiful materials, perfecting my tailoring and craft. I want to be based between Paris and Berlin. I love both cities, but at different times and for different reasons.

I love Paris outside of Fashion Week when I can enjoy the food, museums and people. I love Berlin because it’s a place that has so much yet isn’t smug. If I were to take the production of my brand elsewhere, it would be Spain. It’s like my third home, I feel that when I can’t deal with things anymore, Spain heals me somehow.