Rebellious Renaissance

Following her Berlin Music Video Awards debut, we spoke to designer Flavia FG Tomassi about her Marie Antoinette-inspired collection and how sound shapes her baroque-meets-punk style

On 8 June, Italian costume designer Flavia FG Tomassi presented her theatrical and phallic-formed collection, Rebellious Renaissance, at the Berlin Music Video Awards (BMVAs) fashion show. Over the years, Tomassi had built an international reputation, working across theatre, television, and cinema, and collaborating with prestigious costumiers such as Farani and Giuseppina Angotzi.

They say people are products of their environments, and in the case of Tomassi, this could not be truer. Her grandfather was a renowned tailor who dressed Hollywood stars visiting Rome in the 1950s. Although Tomassi never met him, she still kept his cutting scissors and leftover patterns as cherished talismans. Her father, a historian of ancient Rome specialising in armour replicas, introduced her to the tactile world of materials from an early age.

Tomassi told us, “Since I was a child, I was always in the cellar with my father, forging metals and creating whatever we could imagine. Making models and costumes from nothing — feeling the material and moulding it myself — was essential to my process.”

These formative experiences with wood, metals, and fabrics nurtured her versatility, allowing Tomassi to move seamlessly between historical costume, prêt-à-porter, and what she called ‘alternative fashion,’ experimenting with unconventional materials such as resin and latex. Alongside her work as a designer, she also established herself as a sought-after prop and set designer.

After being invited backstage at the BMVAs to photograph the collection, we caught up with Tomassi to explore her inspirations and her striking approach to design.

For readers unfamiliar with your designs, which three words would you choose to encapsulate them?

Eccentric, fetish, and baroque… Actually, can I add Roman? I think it’s the perfect word to encompass all three. Ancient Rome was pioneering in many respects — both sexually and stylistically — paradoxically, far more progressive than the current Italian social climate.



Congratulations on your debut at the BMVAs 2022. How did that come about?

The BMVAs happened by chance — we ‘found’ each other through social media, and from there, this year’s wonderful collaboration was born. Fortunately, even during the height of the COVID drama, I managed to enjoy a few breaths of fresh air thanks to the Eurovision Song Contest in 2021, where I worked in the styling department for Senhit, representing San Marino. In preparing for the BMVAs, I was able to express my art and style to their fullest. I’m very grateful to the organisers for giving me this incredible opportunity.



Could you tell us more about the Rebellious Renaissance collection we photographed backstage?

This collection is the perfect representation of my style. First and foremost, I’m a costume designer, so I wanted to create something that expresses my roots — my love for historical costume, theatre, and the baroque aesthetic — while blending it with my passion for alternative fashion, punk, and industrial style. I aimed to strike a balance between decadence, gender-fluid sensuality, and glamour.

I was also inspired by Marie Antoinette — reimagining her as a modern woman who is as elegant as she is eccentric. She is unafraid to expose herself and show the world exactly who she is. The collection encourages you to be glittery, bold, and, above all, proud of yourself.

How has music shaped your creative expression?

One of my first passions was the piano. I’ve played since childhood, so music has always been an integral part of my life. I listen to it all day, every day — it’s a constant backdrop. When I’m working in my studio, the speakers are always on and connected to Spotify. Whenever the music stops, I go crazy — my assistants laugh because I start shouting until it’s back on. For me, music is inspiration. It’s life.

Every stage of my personal and creative journey is connected to a soundtrack. Without music, I probably wouldn’t be who I am today, nor would I create what I do. That’s why I wanted to produce a bespoke track for the show with the help of my friend, the musician Mattia Mari. He created something unique that represents me perfectly — it simply wouldn’t have been the same with a random song.



Which artists or genres inspire your style the most?

In my heart, there will always be Depeche Mode and Nine Inch Nails, but currently, I adore Lady Gaga, Miley Cyrus, Harry Styles, The Weeknd, Yungblud, and Halsey. I know that’s more than one, but it’s impossible to decide — I just love the new generation of music artists so much.

From all of the costumes you’ve crafted, is there a collection you feel particularly proud of, and why?

Honestly, I can’t choose. Every time I create a costume, I think of it as my own child — something crafted with my own hands. Working with fabrics and materials of all kinds is a cathartic, almost ritualistic process for me, so I’m deeply attached to everything I create.



Where do you envision yourself in the next five years?

Undoubtedly, my goal for the near future is to evolve and move in an even more artistic direction. My greatest inspirations are Mugler and McQueen, who, as you know, were not merely fashion designers — they built entire worlds. If I can achieve even ten per cent of what they did, I’ll be happy. I envision creating new performances and shows that blend costume design with technology — incorporating elements of virtual reality and 3D mapping. So, stay tuned!