Annelie Schubert
This young yet mature designer—who recently won the Première Vision Grand Prize at the 30th edition of the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography – is a rising star of German high-end womenswear.
Even if the runway show was about the collection unveiled months prior, everyone was very looking forward to seeing her creations live. In an opening video, she quickly narrates her story and process, talking about the loose, yet feminine shapes that define her work. Mixing materials such as heavy wool with almost weightless ones like organza, her creations find delicate balance between opposing elements.
The collection was concise, with around ten looks presented. Models walked down the runway in dense, top heavy pieces that slouched from the neck and opened in the back. These billowy tops were balanced by strictly tailored trousers, balancing masculinity with the elegant gait of the garment’s movement.
SteinRohner
SteinRohner’s show “Relieve the Reef” on Thursday felt like full on summer madness. Hoards of fashionistas and photographers crowded around podiums where nine models stood swathed in tweeds, plastic raincoats and intricate blouses made of foamy ruffles. The collection was incredibly feminine and glossy. There were mid length skirts, plastic jackets, fringed raincoats, pink tweed, and bralettes. One of the strongest looks included pink, ruffled harem pants worn with a visor and the clear raincoat worn over a metallic bra and high waist skirt. The ensembles shown combined the designer duo’s affinity for intricate textures with the simple sportswear. – Chelsea Allen –
Malaika Raiss
At Malaika Raiss’s show on Thursday, an updated sexy secretary reigned supreme. Models wore glasses, top knots and showed significantly less skin than in other collections seen this week. As usual, Raiss’s designs were the kind that are beautiful enough (fabrics, colors, shapes) to transform a woman’s closet into a delectable treasure box of opportunities. They are, however, also understated enough to allow the beauty and style of the individual women who wear them to come through.
While I did get a sexy secretary vibe from the styles in the show, one by no means has to be sexy or a secretary (do they even have those anymore?) to look lovely in Raiss’s clothes. The garments are, in many ways, a blank slate for sophisticated women with a developed sense for style. The strongest looks included one simple black jumpsuit with shoulder straps that fasten with a chic button and a drop waist. A number of strong sheer looks which solidly balanced chic and sexy gave way to numerous interpretations: a pair of black striped see-through trousers, a wispy knit tank top (nip-slip optional) and also a two piece bralette and shorts worn under a very fragile black sheath made of a fabric that resembled soft coral. – Text & backstage photos by Chelsea Allen –
Dietrich Emter retrospective
Kronprinzenpalais hosted an exhibition in memory of the talented designer Dietrich Emter who passed away this last year.
Like visiting a wax museum, faceless cold models were seated and standing in various boudoirs, wearing an archive of dresses from the designer’s past collections. A fan blew on bridal-like gown, creating an endlessly moving still life picture. Behind it, hundreds of paper patterns belong to the late designer were strewn on the floor.
It’s hard to look at Emter’s pieces without wondering how his ideas would evolve if he were still here to create. He was one of many bourgeoning designers coming into his own in the small, but ever growing fashion scene in Berlin. Looking back through our own editorial archives, we can reminisce about the designer’s works, but seeing it in front of us, punctuated with a period was overwhelming to say the least.
Lala Berlin
At Lala over at Kronprinzenpalais, the set up sidestepped what one would normally expect at a fashion show. Upon entering the courtyard, three long banquet tables were laid out adorned with appetizers and wine.
The grey and threatening sky lent a dramatic backdrop to the pieces sent down the runway. The pale models in floor skimming maxi dress, tailored suits, and rompers. Painterly prints, fringe accents, arm cuffs, laser cuts, glycerin skin, and wet hair brought together a wealth of trendy details that have hit their runway marks and still have some stride left in them. While hardly the most innovative collection to come out of fashion week, the looks hold immeasurable appeal because designer Leyla Piedayesh understands how to filter and elevate looks that have both a high fashion touch and commercial value.
Perret Schaad
As you’ve probably heard through the grapevine that is social media, the PerretSchaad show on Thursday was held at an empty splash pool in a residential neighborhood in central Berlin. As models walked in a large circle around the circumference of the dry pool, the sun was setting over a set of colorful plattenbaus in the distance, and there was a distinctly excited and receptive energy in the crowd…and it wasn’t just the free prosecco.
The collection featured a whopping 30 looks, a collective gem. There were silks in mouthwatering shades of raspberry, turquoise, and mint. The silhouette was refreshingly loose except for a number of maxi skirts and suit jackets which were tailored to a T and evoked an kind of pared down old Hollywood glamour meets 1950’s 1st class stewardess. Admirable styles to say the least. My favorite of the looks was a silk fuchsia colored two piece with gorgeous pants that cut just at the ankle and a billowy matching shirt dress with pockets at each hip. – Text & backstage photos by Chelsea Allen –
